August 30, 1965. Leave Yokohama
Monday
Had stayed at Hidaka’s (in Tokyo) Sunday night after our folk song concert. Didn’t sleep well because of couch. Up early. Fujimoris came at 6. Mrs. Hidaka made breakfast; we left for Yokohama in a taxi at 8:45 a.m. Got there about 10 and checked in my baggage, went through immigration, then took my stuff on ship (named the Baikal) after I changed 20,000 yen into dollars. (The exchange rate in 1965 was fixed at 360 yen to the dollar.) Went out again to chat with everyone. Miss Ueki came, then Miss Kami, the Fujimoris, Mariko, Tadashi Hidaka. Rumi and Komiya, all to see me off. Ship left promptly at noon.
Had lunch, got acquainted with cabin mates on Baikal and wandered about. Tea at 4:30 p.m., then napped on deck; supper, then napped again. At 9 the ship’s crew put on a show. Captain is very serious. Band consisted of a trumpet, sax, two accordions, drums and a piano player who doubled on trombone. Quite good. Man introduces songs in Russian, then a girl (like out of a Bond movie) in English, then a man in Japanese. The Japanese and English versions didn’t always agree. After the show, a cigarette and then to bed.
August 31, on board the Baikal
Tuesday
Up early, about 6. Shaved, up on deck until breakfast at 8:30 a.m. Then read a book on deck until lunch, and after lunch, napping again. At dusk, after tea, passed between Homon on Honshu (the Japanese island) and Hokkaido — the last to be seen of Japan. Just before dinner, one Russian who seems to act as an interpreter asked if I would help him with his English pronunciation. I read from a novel by Erskine Caldwell and he repeated after me. Seems he’s a student in Vladivostok.
Dinner, which he had to announce, interrupted us. He asked to continue in the morning. A Japanese businessman who speaks (or pretends to speak) numerous languages, ate with us — me and two Japanese girls just out of college. The businessman is a very gregarious type. Wanted to know why I didn’t talk more. After dinner went to cabin and talked politics, in Japanese, with cabin mate who seems to be in the “industrial health field.”
Dancing was announced at 9 and we went up. I danced twice with the two girls at my table and spent the rest of the time talking with several Japanese young men en route to Germany. One turned out to be from Okinawa and we discussed this. (I have a parenthetical, see early note here, but I no longer remember what that note, the name of an Okinawa hotel, means. Ed.) At 11:30 went on deck for a cigarette, then down to shower and go to bed.
(Also in the afternoon, talked with a Japanese and a man from Sweden. This was after tea. [The Russian chap interrupted us with his language practice request.] But the conversation was desultory.)
Found dancing difficult. Band has strange beat and ship was rolling. Observed on the dance floor: a tall Englishman who whistled each tune over the heard of his partner; a Japanese athlete with an elderly German lady; a Japanese man who showed off doing a rumba; a Russian officer, a huge but handsome man, danced gracefully and quickly; a Russian student did the twist but his partner couldn’t. All the Russians are dancing together expect for a lone Japanese man; a man danced his baby daughter around the floor to everyone’s amusement.
September 1, 1965 18:00 arrive Nakhodka
Wednesday.
Woke up late as we changed time zones — clocks set up one hour — and hurried to breakfast. Then read on deck until lunch. After lunch we talked in our cabin and arranged luggage.
Baikal arrived at Nakhoda just after 4:20 p.m. We were called to tea at 4:15, then told to go to cabin until customs inspected our luggage. We waited. Finally a brawny, young man came. Rather serious. Carefully checked my money, but gave only casual inspection of my luggage. Checked my brief case somewhat more carefully. Then OK’d it all.
A woman came about “fruits.” I had apples given me by Fujimori. She looked at several very carefully, then said I couldn’t take them off the ship. She spoke hardly any English and I tried to say I didn’t want to take them off the ship. We struggled for a while, then the customs man came. I explained and they discussed it in Russian. She then left. Later she came back and asked for some paper to wrap the apples in. The girls in another cabin gave me a paper bag in which the woman put all the apples.
After customs, I went up to the first-class salon to change $10 into nine rubles, then had to wait in line to get my train ticket, meal coupons and luggage tags from Intourist (the Soviet travel agency). Then it was off the ship and onto a bus. Was with a Japanese guy. Bus took us to the railroad station. We thought it was a tour bus but we were mistaken.
We were at the station an hour and a half before departure. The three girls and I and the Japanese guy took pictures and wandered about the platform. Many people around. Girls found a Korean who worked on the railroad. He spoke Japanese and they wanted to learn Russian words. Two Russian women came up. We all talked for about an hour. People most warm and friendly. Finally, about 8 p.m.. — it was still light — [we boarded the train and it left]. Went to dining car to eat. Salad, bread, meat stew kind of thing and a compote. I had to pay extra for coffee. And they brought two cups. Then the girls wanted to hear my guitar. I went to their compartment but it was crowded. Came back to mine and I played and sang a bit. An Italian from Milan is sharing my compartment. Friendly chap. The girls left about 10 and the Italian and I talked for a while. Then arranged to sleep. A Korean in the compartment, too, with a chap going to Germany. They were talking about Russia.
NOTES: On the ship this afternoon, met a Japanese man who was at the University of Illinois in 1957-59. Studied metallurgy.
Few cars. People somewhat grim but not unfriendly. Buildings dilapidated. Port painted bright colors. Many children about. Many soldiers, young men.
Bought cigarettes and matches at tobacco kiosk on platform.
It’s now 11:30 (p.m.) and train has stopped for something. We are due in Khabarovsk at 3:50 tomorrow afternoon.
September 2, 15:10 Arrive Khabarovsk (Overnight)
Thursday
Tatyana Domashevitch, Intourist
Train arrived here 12:30. On train talked with an Intourist girl named Galena, who is a friend of Tatyana’s. (Tatyana guided a photographic society group that included Mary Newsom, a teacher in the Navy dependent school in Yokohama, and Mary and Tatyana had kept up a correspondence. So I asked Mary to ask if Tatyana would be my official guide in Khabarovsk.) This girl too wanted to hear the guitar so I played for her. Was bored I think.
At Khabarovsk Station, Tatyana was there. Went to my hotel by bus with others. I “rested,” as ordered, for 45 minutes or so. Then Tatyana and I took a taxi on tour of the city. Went up major avenues to a stadium on the Amur River. Stopped to look at a swimming pool. [Some words I can’t decipher here.] Then at the office of the local circus we left the car and bought tickets for that evening and then walked through an open market to a shop where Tatyana said she needed a new purse. She looked but didn’t buy.
Then it was to Lenin Square and the Intourist office. Intourist has lost my train ticket between Irkutsk and Moscow. A person there tried to call Nakhodka but “Natasha was resting.” So will try tomorrow morning.
Then to a department store where I bought some German film. Back at the Hotel Far East, where I am staying, I had a snack of sausages, bread and coffee. We met Galena and then took off to the circus. Main attraction there was a girl with tigers. So many acrobats. Before the circus we had walked through a park to the Amur River. Then got a bus to the circus. After the circus walked to Central Hotel where a basketball team from Niigata (Japan) is staying. In the dining room, many people, soldiers. The band played “When the Saints Go Marching In” as we drank vodka and beer and ate some delicious smoked salmon.
We sat with a young American and a Russian who claimed to be from Radio Moscow and in Khabarovsk doing some reporting. Had been drinking. Tatyana said he was drunk. We didn’t leave until they forced everyone out by turning out the lights. Then Tatyana walked me back to my hotel. Felt a bit drunk myself.
Tatyana’s comment: “I’m not a Communist. It is a great responsibility to be a Communist.”
“The Chinese are obstinate. They say bad things about our government on their radio in Russian.”
NOTES: Russian in the Central Hotel dining room talking politics freely, mostly about Vietnam. The young American had been in Russia for a month. At one point, Tatyana spoke sharply to the Russian, he looked sheepish and not long afterward he and the young American left.
An old man tried to speak German to us as Tatyana and I waited for the bus at the Amur River. Old man asked what my work is; I said a journalist and he quickly snapped back that then I’m not a worker like him. The bus was as crowded as in Japan.
Khabarovsk is a beautiful city in its way, but sort of unfinished. Old houses along side new brick apartment buildings. Men in old-style clothes but women wearing more fashionable things.
Adventure in a bookshop; won 50 kopeks in lottery at bookstore with which I got a calendar and some postcards. Then stopped in post office to buy stamps. This before returning to the hotel to meet Galena.
OBSERVED: Two men arguing at the bank of the Amur when we went to the park.
Galena and Tatyana both flirting with me, I think. Tatyana asked, “You don’t believe in God, do you?”
September 3, 1965 10:45 Leave Khabarovsk Air SU 4
Friday
Woke up about 7:30 a.m. Fixed bags, splashed water on my face, went down. Dining room appeared closed (8:00) so to “refreshment room.” Coupons no use, paid 12 kopeks for cup of black coffee. People there eating bread, sausages and buttermilk. Spotted two Japanese chaps and their guide. Then at 9 Tatyana came with a taxi that took us to the airport. Had to wait for the plane. German women (a group) were complaining among themselves loudly. Gave Tatyana a record in taxi. We had coffee and pancakes, huge things, thin with only butter, at restaurant near airport. Shopped. T. said it is called “Aquarius.” Foreign travelers kept in a kind of VIP room away from others. We left at about 11; were put on a different plane than originally scheduled. The three of us (me and two Japanese) in front part. Not many people in back. Peasant woman with a pig. Flight took three hours, arrived 12:15 Irkutsk time. Huge lunch on plane — roast beef, caviar, cherries, black bread, sweet herb tea. Stewardess spoke only Russian. Had written info on flight — how fast, etc. — on paper but we could not quite understand.
Irkutsk very cold. Old town (300 years). Khabarovsk only 100, T. said.
Tiny girl, looked Oriental (she was Mongolian), met us at airport. Took the three of us to Central Hotel on Lenin Avenue. I explained about train ticket after we registered. She said to come to the Intourist office at 3 and rest until then. Now 1:30 p.m. Will see what happens.
Now 5:30 p.m. and still no word on ticket. Went down at 3, girl came and said she had wired Moscow. But no answer yet. Asked me to wait until 4. I went to dining hall and drank several cups of black coffee and ate a cake. Around 4:15 went to lobby. Girl came. Still no answer. Asked if I would like to take a walk. So I walked up Lenin Avenue to Karl Marx Street, then out to a monument on a river and back. Then down Karl Marx and then back to hotel. Many students. Several Orientals (Mongolians?). Big food shops, all busy. The sound of walking feet in light snow. Few cars. Few trolleys or buses. Saw woman’s slip for 16 rubles in a shop window.
Went down to lobby. Met two Japanese. One en route to Canterbury went to Culture Park. I asked to go with [the other named] Harada on walk. Went up to first floor dining room to eat. Service slow. English women talking loudly. Australian couple next with Turkish correspondent. About 8:15 finished. Harada and I walked about for an hour. Saw the Greek and a Negro from Paris with some Russians near a restaurant where a band was playing. I left Harada after we passed the French woman on the street.
So tired I went straight to bed. About 11:30 Intourist girl called to say Moscow had answered and I should have a ticket. But I must pay again because I don’t have it now. I was half asleep and spoke angrily. She said to be in the lobby at 7:45 a.m. next morning and hung up.
NOTES: Harada said he also arrives in Moscow on the 7th by air.
I keep wanting to speak Japanese to the Russians who speak to me.
September 4, 1965 08:22 Leave Irkutsk Rail No. 9
Saturday
Up at 6 a.m. Showered, shaved, packed bags. In lobby at 7:45. Girl came. Still no change — don’t know what to do. I thought, well, if it can be fixed in Moscow … so I paid $53 for a ticket to Moscow. Girl had taxi waiting. We rushed to the station, she bought the ticket and I boarded the train.
I was in a compartment with a family, but the conductress came and moved me to another compartment two cars down. Only occupant is a quite beautiful girl with auburn hair. No one spoke English and I seem to be the only foreigner on the train. Conductress brought tea after trying to tell me to go to the dining car. At noon, I went to the dining car — six cars up — and ate but there seemed to be some problem with the coupons. Perhaps I didn’t eat enough or something because they gave me change. (Note: Because you buy all travel services in advance from Intourist, you get coupons to exchange for meals. I was told later that the train people didn’t like Intourist coupons and really wanted cash because reimbursement was slow.)
Went back to the compartment. Auburn-haired girl wanted to undress and made me understand by taking her hands and turning my head away. She slept most of the afternoon. Once, when the conductress came in, we got out the Russian phrase book Tatyana had bought for me and they learned I was an American tourist, 29 years old, and unmarried. This caused some laughter between the two women (I think I was grateful for not understanding what they were laughing about).
I spent the afternoon reading “A Spy in Rome” by Peter Tompkins. Went to dinner and had another conversation about the coupons. Girl wanted to know if I was alone. Didn’t understand why. Read more and then went to bed.
NOTES: The country is sweeping plains, sometimes forest, sometimes great fields of grain. In hilly places there are pines. In other areas there are groves of white birches. We pass small villages, mostly of traditional Russian houses. In the bigger towns the train will stop for up to 10 minutes. You never know when the train stops or when it is ready to depart again. Passed at least one lumbering town.
September 5, 1965 En route to Moscow on No. 9
Sunday
The auburn-haired girl left the train shortly after dawn this morning. It was raining but an hour and a half later it had stopped. Train is now stopped. I got up, shaved and brushed my teeth after she left.
Conductress came in, took out the linen the girl had used and asked if I wanted a warm blanket. I agreed for it is chilly in the train now. It was warm during the night.
Read all day. Had lunch and paid with the breakfast coupon and several kopeks. Paid cash for soup and tea for supper. Restaurant car doesn’t like the coupons, I think. (See my earlier note.) They are now writing out a full bill for me.
Landscape seems unchanging. Birches, vast sweeping land, small villages. Stopped in one big industrial town around noon. Saw factories and stacks of bricks and windows and obvious building materials in rail yard as we left the town. As we were stopped later in the afternoon, noticed girls carrying out garbage in buckets from the train to an incinerator.
A beautiful sunset now as I write, about two hours from Omsk. The land is overpowering, the sky always so forbidding. The people in their heavy dark clothes seem overwhelmed by it.
Still worrying about my train ticket situation. Have little hope that Moscow will be any more reasonable than the other places. It is too complicated and as it is to their advantage not to be helpful I am almost sure I will have to pay for another ticket to Helsinki. It’s going to cut into my budget somewhat but I’ll get by. Time in New York will have to be cut to a minimum. May fly straight to Chicago and go on home. I think I will be ready. Perhaps can stay with Ruth or something there. If Mom writes me in Amsterdam, that is. I’m going to be cutting it very close with the money.
September 6, 1965 En route to Moscow on No. 9
Monday
Was awakened just at down by the washing of car windows outside. Got up, did my toilet stuff, ate cookies for breakfast. Starting to read “Making of the President 1960.” Conductress came in late in the morning to try to tell me something. Seems I’m to fill out a form about the train — how (?) etc., Learned the French woman was not on the train as Harada had said she would be. I’m the only tourist on the train. Very few tourists take the train. Managed to get to dining car for lunch and ate well. Then back to read. When train makes 10- or 15-minutes stops I get out for fresh air, as do most passengers.
We passed through the Urals (mountain region) this morning. Conductress pointed this out. A more mountainous area with great groves of white birches. Trees are turning red and yellow. Fall has set in here.
Passed a beautiful river with evidence of much logging. At one spot people rowing boats in river, one man fishing. Looked like a kind of small resort. Then out to the flatter land again. Several industrial cities and always the small, drab farm villages. Goats along the raildroad, many hay fields. Women working along the railroad.
Only 20 hours more as I write at 3:50 p.m. Moscow time. Train runs on Moscow time, not local time, so I’ve been very confused. Four hours [time zones] difference between Irkutsk and Moscow.
LATER (in Moscow): Feel asleep reading “The Making” on the bunk fully clothed. Noise woke at about 9:30 p.m. Found man and his wife entering my compartment. Went right back to sleep, then woke about 3 a.m. Put on my pajamas.
September 7, 1965 Arrive Moscow 21:20
Tuesday
Awoke at 6 a.m., lay there till 6:30 or so, then dressed, washed face. Couple still sleeping. Then at 8 o’clock stop (or 0700?) young men joined us in compartment. This stop was the last before Moscow. After awhile, man spoke to me in English. Spoke very little. Name is Valery, in an institute studying electronics, and on way to the Crimea for a holiday at the seaside. The more elderly couple joined in. All amazed I’m a tourist traveling alone. Wanted to know the cost, etc.
At about 10, the car porteress pointed out the Volga River.
Train arrived in Moscow at 11:45 (a.m.). Couple and Valery bid me goodbye. Intourist man, speaking French, met me at the station, took me to the Hotel Peking and left me. I immediately bathed, shaved and put on fresh clothes. Then to Intourist office to see about tours, tickets and above all my train ticket problem. They sent me to eat dinner and come back. Said train ticket would be settled, “don’t worry,” but I’m doubtful. Couldn’t locate Harada. He was probably mistaken about his arrival.
Then walked to Red Square. Wide boulevards. Sat in park beneath Kremlin, watching people. Then walked up to Red Square, past Lenin’s Tomb, over to St. Basil’s and past GUM’s (department store), which was closed. At five, saw changing of the guard at Lenin’s tomb. Man was repairing rubber carpeting to door of tomb and apparently visitors were not allowed.
Walked about square, watched cars, usually with military men, leave Kremlin. Then headed back to hotel.
When back, straightened out things, did some laundry and put on tie and went down at just before 9 for supper. But line is waiting, so I walked out toward square near hotel, up past Minsk Hotel and back. On way back, boy about 12 approached me in English. First asked the time, then wanted to know if I had any clothes to sell, my watch, all sorts of things, then cigarettes. I said, “You’re too young to smoke.” He said his father smoked. I told him I had only Japanese cigarettes and he left then without a thing. We were walking along the street all the time.
Got back to hotel. Still a line so strolled about 10 minutes more. Then back. A drunk was trying to get in. I finally made my tourist status known and finally got to eat my supper at about 10:30.
Band in dining room is playing American stuff. “When the Saints,” and other tunes. Young couples twisting, straight jitterbug, and I think some steps of their own creation. Enjoyed, then up to bed and to write this.
NOTES: Peasant woman peddling pickles, berries at doors of train cars at dawn or 6 a.m. stop this morning.
Couple on train asking whether I am married.
People in the parks. The restaurants are crowded and (?) at 9 p.m. And not cheap restaurants either.
The quiet gaiety in the streets. And the drunks and the seeming arguments.
Many young couples arm in arm.
The Russian language sounds as if everyone is arguing when they speak. My ear finds it strange.
Tomorrow I tour the Kremlin and attend a puppet theater.
Wrote letter home.
September 8, 1965 In Moscow
Wednesday
Left call for 8 a.m. but woke at 7. Got to Service Bureau at 9 but had to wait for car. Picked up my guide at the Nationale Hotel (after driver made a mistake and took me directly to Red Square). A young man named Slava. Then with Slava back to Red Square to tour the Kremlin Museum of Treasures and two of the cathedrals (inside the Kremlin walls) — Ivan the Terrible’s and the Archangel where the czars are entombed. Saw the tree the first Soviet cosmonaut planted after landing back on Earth. Then went through the Lenin Mausoleum. The queue must have been a mile or more long. We got in ahead; part of the tourist treatment. Slava next took me through the subway and we rode for a couple of stops; 5 kopeks for anywhere in the city. You put money in the slot, electric eye lets you through. Trains run every 90 seconds. Slava left after we made arrangements for tomorrow.
Back at the hotel, just as I unlocked the door, the phone was ringing: Go to the Service Bureau. There I was told to go to Central Intourist about my ticket problem. Ate dinner (lunch) first, then took taxi there. Taxi driver was very kind. Stopped at the Nationale first but to check, got out and went in office. Then drove me 50 yards to right building. At the Intourist office had to wait for the person handling my problem. As it turned out, I will get my money back — in New York — and a ticket to Helsinki. Very pleasant woman taking care of it.
Then walked back to the Hotel Peking much relieved and picked up my tickets to the puppet theater and bathed and rested until time to leave. Got back at 5 p.m. and show began at 7:30. Puppet play was on a contemporary theme, much to do about sex, and I’m not sure what the attitude was. Generally humorous. Quite interesting.
Back at the hotel about 9:45 p.m. for a light supper. Two Japanese businessmen, a Filipino and a Russian were having a party near my table. Singing, carrying on. Some Russian students joined in. Quite a gay, noisy party. Sang “Auld Ange Syne,” the “Battle Hymn of the Republic.” To hear two Japanese, a Filipino and three Russian students sing “Mine eyes have seen the glory” (each in their own languages except the Filipino sang in English) is something. One waiter finally, after they had downed a bottle of champagne, calmed them down. Band was also playing some lively tunes and to one Russian-style bit two women from the table next to me really let loose with a kind of ballroom version of the Cossack dance — Russian flamenco, if you will. A Russian gentleman sat down at my table, ignoring the sign saying it is for a tourist (me). He spoke derisively of the Japanese table, asked me the time. Quite distinguished-looking, but harried, seemed to take it all with amused disgust. He left. Then the Japanese bunch broke up and I left. As I was walking out of the dining room, heard one of the Russians trying to end the night with the Japanese: “You rest and tomorrow we will see the machines.” Up to bed.
NOTES: After leaving Lenin’s Tomb, you walk by the Kremlin wall where revolutionary heroes are buried; several nationalities including U.S. The most famous and the last of these is Stalin. All have busts as markers except for Stalin. I asked my guide if Stalin’s grave will get a marker soon. He said yes.
Guide had never seen Sergei Eisenstein’s film, “Ivan the Terrible.” He did not think it was made in Russia (it was). Claimed to know nothing about it. And wasn’t anxious for me to talk about it for some reason.
Elizabeth’s gift to the princess: Solid silver dining set of more than 3,000 pieces using two tons of silver.
September 9, 1965 In Moscow
Thursday
Was to meet Slava at the Nationale Hotel about 10:15 a.m. The Service Bureau was confused about my coupons, so I was late and he didn’t show up. I asked at the Nationale and about 10:30 a girl appeared. We then drove about the city — Lenin Hills, through old part of city, Moscow University, and toured Tolstoy’s home. She got out at Karl Marx Square and car took me to the hotel.
Was seated for dinner with a Swedish ballerina, born in Iceland. We had a pleasant chat about Helsinki and Stockholm. She said the Swedes are very shy and asked my opinion of Russian women. A Russian friend and a French businessman came. She was waiting for the Russian. We talked with the Frenchman who had been in the United States. He passed around Pall Mall (cigarettes). They left after a short hassle with the bill. I then went by subway to GUM’s. Prices so high. Spent an hour walking through it. Looked in the photo department for film but couldn’t find any. Then happened in next door to a record shop but couldn’t understand what was going on. Back to hotel.
Service Bureau called me to say I must get my ballet tickets. Went up, and while I was there Mrs. Czakova telephoned about train ticket refund. Go to Central Intourist again tomorrow.
Ballet began at 6:30 and it was after 5 so I rushed to bathe and get to the theater. Asked directions — they had written name of theater on the ticket — to the Stanislavski. Got there as bell was ringing. Back to hotel at 10 and ate dinner at table with German or Scandinavian couple. We didn’t talk. The glum waiter served us. Said no coffee but other people were getting coffee. Trying experience with this guy. Then to bed early, reading “Making.”
NOTE: I made no comment in my diary about the ballet for some reason and I now have no recollection of it. However, a Google search suggests it probably was the famous Stanislavski Ballet and Moscow Art Theatre.
September 10, 1965 In Moscow
Friday
Up late. To the buffet for a cup of coffee at 9:15. Then repacked bags and caught up on diary and wrote postcards until noon.
Also have a cold.
At noon went to the Service Bureau to get directions to Tretyakov Gallery (directions I later found wrong). Then ate lunch (dinner) and was joined by two Japanese businessmen. Talked about Moscow and Japan in Japanese. One, the younger, had been here several months for an industry exhibition and spoke Russian. The elder was here for the first time.
Took a taxi to the gallery, wandered about there for two hours. (Note: Drawing of Hitler, stooped over, head on chair and hat on his butt which other officer salutes.) Post-revolutionary art — the “hail forward look.”
Then walked across Moscow River, through Red Square to Central Intourist where, after a struggle, Mrs. Czakova brought me a letter to American Express (for a refund which I later got in New York), but said I must go to the Central Travel office at the Metropole Hotel to get my train ticket.
While waiting for her, got in a conversation with a Japanese named Sekioka, a Nihon University graduate and engineer with Nippon Television in Tokyo, who has spent three and a half months traveling through Europe; he gave me tips on hotels in Helsinki and Stockholm and Oslo.
After standing in line at Central Travel for my train tickets, finally got them — hooray!
Took subway back to hotel. Went to Service Bureau to check on leaving hotel. They booked a car to take me to the station, but knew nothing about anything. I am to show up at hotel administration at 10:30 (p.m.) or so to check out, have porter get bag. Will go early.
Then ate supper — one and a half hours — saw the German/Scandinavian couple come in again with Russians.
Two ladies came in very affectionately, later joined by man and wife, effusive greetings. All speak in Russian, but lady with thick glasses a tourist.
Writing this before going down to check out.
Checked out at 10 p.m. and took car to Leningrad Station. Young man met me there — meets everyone apparently, and the porter put my bags and me on the train.
Found compartment was full — me, interpreter in French for Intourist who was returning to Leningrad, another man who spoke English, and a man who did not speak at all.
Brief conversation and smoking as train left Moscow, then all went to bed.
Man who spoke English pointed out the TV tower to me as we left the city. Said autumn not a good time in Leningrad.
September 11, 1965 Arrive Leningrad 07:30
Saturday
Woke at 6:30, dressed, stood in line to use the toilet. Train arrived in Leningrad at 7:25 a.m., on time. But no one from Intourist met the train. Walked to main entrance and waited 30 minutes, then back to platform. Finally asked a policemen for Intourist and he took me to a big waiting room in the central hall. Found a UAR couple, embassy people, also waiting. Said they have been there since 6:30 a.m.
Finally, at 8:30, a man showed up, asked for me, then disappeared, then came back and put me on a bus. “Don’t forget me,” the Egyptian said.
On bus alone to the Astoria Hotel. But at hotel many tourists crowded around the Service Bureau. Woman had no record of me. Waited until 10, and she finally got me to a room, a garret-like room looking out over the dome of St. Issak’s Church.
Very bad cold. Getting worse.
Went down again to check train ticket. Again no record of me. Come in the afternoon, they said. Booked a guide.
Met a Japanese fellow, Takano, who was on the plane with me to Irkutsk.
I rested and then went to lunch. Takano joined me. English group is at the next table. Everyone is complaining of travel problems with Intourist.
Had ordered a tour for 2 p.m. Ate at 1 and barely made it.
Tour was a general one of the city, which is beautiful. Guide is an English teacher at some institute. Very pleasant woman. Kept referring to “the Great October socialist revolution.” Places in the guidebook.
We stopped at a pharmacy and the guide got me aspirin and an inhaler for the cold and then we went to a record shop where I bought records of folk songs and the Red Army Chorus. Then wound up the tour and back to the hotel.
Finally got my train ticket after a 30-minute wait.
No guide for tomorrow, which is Sunday, so will probably go to the Hermitage alone. Service Bureau mentioned a group tour there at 10 a.m.
Going down to dinner, then do some laundry and go to bed with aspirin. Hope it works.
Wrote letter home.
(Later — did just this.)
September 12, 1965 In Leningrad
Sunday
In bed until 12 noon. Up, shaved, ate lunch, inquired about leaving, retrieved passport and then went to the Hermitage.
Cold is awful. Aspirin did little good. Moving to chest.
On way to the Hermitage, stopped at St. Issak’s.
Got to the Hermitage (as the czar’s Winter Place is now called) at 2 p.m. Saw the Winter Palace museum, all the Matisse and the other French impressionists, the Japan and China rooms, and the Rubens and Rembrandts. Also Joshua Reynolds, Picasso.
While I was in the men’s room smoking, it began to rain. Clouds had been fierce-looking all day.
Men’s toilets are strange. Foot rests and big hole with chest-high compartment.
Man with a son bummed cigarette in washroom and two young boys then bummed cigarettes as I left the building. They were looking for things to buy and offered Russian icon in return. Wouldn’t answer my questions, though.
Got back to the hotel at 4:30 and just sat. Read the London Daily Worker. Finally went up to the room and rested until almost 7.
Then to supper. Joined Takano, who is still here, and it turns out we both go together on the train to Helsinki tomorrow morning.
Takano left and later brought 100-yen Olympic coin that I was to give to our waiter. His brother was a middleweight wrestler in the Tokyo Olympics; the brother won no medals but collects these coins.
Was then joined by young German Swiss couple that was driving in Russia, to Moscow and back. Very shy. Man works in Helsinki. We talked about traveling and Japan. Girl asked about the word “sabashi.” Heard it in an American movie. Man is studying architecture. Talked about Tange and the swimming pool (Kenzo Tange designed the pool for the 1964 Olympics). Cold got the better of me and I had to leave.
Back at the room, washed handkerchiefs and packed bag. Wrote this, my last night in Russia.
Russian toilet paper is like pale pink (rose) crepe paper.
NOTE: I didn't write about it in the diary, but I remember standing in one of the great rooms of the Winter Palace museum, on the second floor of the Hermitage, looking out over the square where the crowds gathered in 1917 and wondering if I was standing in the same room in which the czar and his family had come to watch what was happening outside. The Hermitage also had a room devoted to identified fake Rembrandts, all separate from the authentic Rembrandts.
September 13 Leave Leningrad 07:55 No. 32 Arrive Helsinki 12:15
Monday
(Hotel info — in station “Student Home”) I have no recollection of what this means.
Up at 6. Floor maid rang me. As I was dressing, porter came for bags. Down at 6:45. Man who met Arabs and me at the station Saturday morning was there. Takano, a Japanese from Paris, two Frenchmen and a Swiss who had no ticket were waiting. Two Frenchmen and I shared car to the station. Was there plenty early and we stood about for a bit. Learned the Swiss had been in Japan a year studying acupuncture. Train from Moscow arrived and then we boarded. Swiss got fixed up with a ticket or something, I don’t know. Also on the train were a Finnish basketball team and four or five Tokyo University students and two Japanese girls going to Helsinki.
In my compartment was an elderly lady. I noticed she was giving kisses and fond goodbyes. We talked much during the train ride. She is 73. Left Russia when she was 19 and hadn’t been there for 35 years. She now lives in Amsterdam and is a Dutch national. She had married a Dutchman and is long widowed.
She was born in Leningrad and had gone there to get reacquainted with her family. She spent two and a half months in Russia, and apparently had enough of it. She, too, spoke of the grim life, the “proletariat life,” and the concern for material things. Relatives were of a different mentality, she said, explaining how proud Dutch men were and wouldn’t have their wives working, how expensive things were compared to Holland.
Much time on train was taken with border formalities and long stops were made twice. Our passports were inspected by Russians twice, visa removed. No luggage inspection, however, by either Russians or the Finns. Train searched by Russian soldiers. Border area on Russian side all military. See only troops working.
At border itself, train stopped. Finnish soldier made a cursory inspection. We moved on. As we did so the Finnish basketball team, many of them hanging out their car windows, broke out into song, their national anthem, I think. Finnish border office took our passports at the next stop, stamped them and returned them. That was all.
Arrived in Helsinki at 3:50 p.m. Bought a Paris Herald-Tribune and a book first thing. Then to hotel central to find a room. Put in Lahetup Hospiz, 1 Annegaten, very clean, no bath, 12 marks (320 to a dollar). Inquired about boat to Stockholm, learned none on Wednesdays, leaves 2 p.m. So decided to take it tomorrow. Not that much to do in Helsinki.
Went to hospiz, washed, rested a bit, then went out. Downtown area is small and so modern and so clean. Had coffee and pastry in a cafe, went to station first and bought Time. Looked for a restaurant after coffee but the restaurants seemed big and expensive-looking. So found another café with food and ate two big hamburger-like sandwiches with fried egg in a bun. Sandwich with coffee more than a dollar ($1.25). Then walked some more and back to hotel at about 8:30 p.m.
NOTES: Lady on the train refused to let me take her picture. Seemed most embarrassed, so I dropped it.
Helped Japanese girls get grapes washed and order tea in small box in next car on train.
Todai (Tokyo University) boys went to hostel. Takano was met at station and disappeared. So did the Swiss.
Lady bid me a nice goodbye. She had remarked, “I will never see you again and you me.” This was earlier during on conversation about life in Russia, her life learning two languages and staying young by keeping busy. Remarkable woman.
This ends the journal.
Monday
Had stayed at Hidaka’s (in Tokyo) Sunday night after our folk song concert. Didn’t sleep well because of couch. Up early. Fujimoris came at 6. Mrs. Hidaka made breakfast; we left for Yokohama in a taxi at 8:45 a.m. Got there about 10 and checked in my baggage, went through immigration, then took my stuff on ship (named the Baikal) after I changed 20,000 yen into dollars. (The exchange rate in 1965 was fixed at 360 yen to the dollar.) Went out again to chat with everyone. Miss Ueki came, then Miss Kami, the Fujimoris, Mariko, Tadashi Hidaka. Rumi and Komiya, all to see me off. Ship left promptly at noon.
Had lunch, got acquainted with cabin mates on Baikal and wandered about. Tea at 4:30 p.m., then napped on deck; supper, then napped again. At 9 the ship’s crew put on a show. Captain is very serious. Band consisted of a trumpet, sax, two accordions, drums and a piano player who doubled on trombone. Quite good. Man introduces songs in Russian, then a girl (like out of a Bond movie) in English, then a man in Japanese. The Japanese and English versions didn’t always agree. After the show, a cigarette and then to bed.
August 31, on board the Baikal
Tuesday
Up early, about 6. Shaved, up on deck until breakfast at 8:30 a.m. Then read a book on deck until lunch, and after lunch, napping again. At dusk, after tea, passed between Homon on Honshu (the Japanese island) and Hokkaido — the last to be seen of Japan. Just before dinner, one Russian who seems to act as an interpreter asked if I would help him with his English pronunciation. I read from a novel by Erskine Caldwell and he repeated after me. Seems he’s a student in Vladivostok.
Dinner, which he had to announce, interrupted us. He asked to continue in the morning. A Japanese businessman who speaks (or pretends to speak) numerous languages, ate with us — me and two Japanese girls just out of college. The businessman is a very gregarious type. Wanted to know why I didn’t talk more. After dinner went to cabin and talked politics, in Japanese, with cabin mate who seems to be in the “industrial health field.”
Dancing was announced at 9 and we went up. I danced twice with the two girls at my table and spent the rest of the time talking with several Japanese young men en route to Germany. One turned out to be from Okinawa and we discussed this. (I have a parenthetical, see early note here, but I no longer remember what that note, the name of an Okinawa hotel, means. Ed.) At 11:30 went on deck for a cigarette, then down to shower and go to bed.
(Also in the afternoon, talked with a Japanese and a man from Sweden. This was after tea. [The Russian chap interrupted us with his language practice request.] But the conversation was desultory.)
Found dancing difficult. Band has strange beat and ship was rolling. Observed on the dance floor: a tall Englishman who whistled each tune over the heard of his partner; a Japanese athlete with an elderly German lady; a Japanese man who showed off doing a rumba; a Russian officer, a huge but handsome man, danced gracefully and quickly; a Russian student did the twist but his partner couldn’t. All the Russians are dancing together expect for a lone Japanese man; a man danced his baby daughter around the floor to everyone’s amusement.
September 1, 1965 18:00 arrive Nakhodka
Wednesday.
Woke up late as we changed time zones — clocks set up one hour — and hurried to breakfast. Then read on deck until lunch. After lunch we talked in our cabin and arranged luggage.
Baikal arrived at Nakhoda just after 4:20 p.m. We were called to tea at 4:15, then told to go to cabin until customs inspected our luggage. We waited. Finally a brawny, young man came. Rather serious. Carefully checked my money, but gave only casual inspection of my luggage. Checked my brief case somewhat more carefully. Then OK’d it all.
A woman came about “fruits.” I had apples given me by Fujimori. She looked at several very carefully, then said I couldn’t take them off the ship. She spoke hardly any English and I tried to say I didn’t want to take them off the ship. We struggled for a while, then the customs man came. I explained and they discussed it in Russian. She then left. Later she came back and asked for some paper to wrap the apples in. The girls in another cabin gave me a paper bag in which the woman put all the apples.
After customs, I went up to the first-class salon to change $10 into nine rubles, then had to wait in line to get my train ticket, meal coupons and luggage tags from Intourist (the Soviet travel agency). Then it was off the ship and onto a bus. Was with a Japanese guy. Bus took us to the railroad station. We thought it was a tour bus but we were mistaken.
We were at the station an hour and a half before departure. The three girls and I and the Japanese guy took pictures and wandered about the platform. Many people around. Girls found a Korean who worked on the railroad. He spoke Japanese and they wanted to learn Russian words. Two Russian women came up. We all talked for about an hour. People most warm and friendly. Finally, about 8 p.m.. — it was still light — [we boarded the train and it left]. Went to dining car to eat. Salad, bread, meat stew kind of thing and a compote. I had to pay extra for coffee. And they brought two cups. Then the girls wanted to hear my guitar. I went to their compartment but it was crowded. Came back to mine and I played and sang a bit. An Italian from Milan is sharing my compartment. Friendly chap. The girls left about 10 and the Italian and I talked for a while. Then arranged to sleep. A Korean in the compartment, too, with a chap going to Germany. They were talking about Russia.
NOTES: On the ship this afternoon, met a Japanese man who was at the University of Illinois in 1957-59. Studied metallurgy.
Few cars. People somewhat grim but not unfriendly. Buildings dilapidated. Port painted bright colors. Many children about. Many soldiers, young men.
Bought cigarettes and matches at tobacco kiosk on platform.
It’s now 11:30 (p.m.) and train has stopped for something. We are due in Khabarovsk at 3:50 tomorrow afternoon.
September 2, 15:10 Arrive Khabarovsk (Overnight)
Thursday
Tatyana Domashevitch, Intourist
Train arrived here 12:30. On train talked with an Intourist girl named Galena, who is a friend of Tatyana’s. (Tatyana guided a photographic society group that included Mary Newsom, a teacher in the Navy dependent school in Yokohama, and Mary and Tatyana had kept up a correspondence. So I asked Mary to ask if Tatyana would be my official guide in Khabarovsk.) This girl too wanted to hear the guitar so I played for her. Was bored I think.
At Khabarovsk Station, Tatyana was there. Went to my hotel by bus with others. I “rested,” as ordered, for 45 minutes or so. Then Tatyana and I took a taxi on tour of the city. Went up major avenues to a stadium on the Amur River. Stopped to look at a swimming pool. [Some words I can’t decipher here.] Then at the office of the local circus we left the car and bought tickets for that evening and then walked through an open market to a shop where Tatyana said she needed a new purse. She looked but didn’t buy.
Then it was to Lenin Square and the Intourist office. Intourist has lost my train ticket between Irkutsk and Moscow. A person there tried to call Nakhodka but “Natasha was resting.” So will try tomorrow morning.
Then to a department store where I bought some German film. Back at the Hotel Far East, where I am staying, I had a snack of sausages, bread and coffee. We met Galena and then took off to the circus. Main attraction there was a girl with tigers. So many acrobats. Before the circus we had walked through a park to the Amur River. Then got a bus to the circus. After the circus walked to Central Hotel where a basketball team from Niigata (Japan) is staying. In the dining room, many people, soldiers. The band played “When the Saints Go Marching In” as we drank vodka and beer and ate some delicious smoked salmon.
We sat with a young American and a Russian who claimed to be from Radio Moscow and in Khabarovsk doing some reporting. Had been drinking. Tatyana said he was drunk. We didn’t leave until they forced everyone out by turning out the lights. Then Tatyana walked me back to my hotel. Felt a bit drunk myself.
Tatyana’s comment: “I’m not a Communist. It is a great responsibility to be a Communist.”
“The Chinese are obstinate. They say bad things about our government on their radio in Russian.”
NOTES: Russian in the Central Hotel dining room talking politics freely, mostly about Vietnam. The young American had been in Russia for a month. At one point, Tatyana spoke sharply to the Russian, he looked sheepish and not long afterward he and the young American left.
An old man tried to speak German to us as Tatyana and I waited for the bus at the Amur River. Old man asked what my work is; I said a journalist and he quickly snapped back that then I’m not a worker like him. The bus was as crowded as in Japan.
Khabarovsk is a beautiful city in its way, but sort of unfinished. Old houses along side new brick apartment buildings. Men in old-style clothes but women wearing more fashionable things.
Adventure in a bookshop; won 50 kopeks in lottery at bookstore with which I got a calendar and some postcards. Then stopped in post office to buy stamps. This before returning to the hotel to meet Galena.
OBSERVED: Two men arguing at the bank of the Amur when we went to the park.
Galena and Tatyana both flirting with me, I think. Tatyana asked, “You don’t believe in God, do you?”
September 3, 1965 10:45 Leave Khabarovsk Air SU 4
Friday
Woke up about 7:30 a.m. Fixed bags, splashed water on my face, went down. Dining room appeared closed (8:00) so to “refreshment room.” Coupons no use, paid 12 kopeks for cup of black coffee. People there eating bread, sausages and buttermilk. Spotted two Japanese chaps and their guide. Then at 9 Tatyana came with a taxi that took us to the airport. Had to wait for the plane. German women (a group) were complaining among themselves loudly. Gave Tatyana a record in taxi. We had coffee and pancakes, huge things, thin with only butter, at restaurant near airport. Shopped. T. said it is called “Aquarius.” Foreign travelers kept in a kind of VIP room away from others. We left at about 11; were put on a different plane than originally scheduled. The three of us (me and two Japanese) in front part. Not many people in back. Peasant woman with a pig. Flight took three hours, arrived 12:15 Irkutsk time. Huge lunch on plane — roast beef, caviar, cherries, black bread, sweet herb tea. Stewardess spoke only Russian. Had written info on flight — how fast, etc. — on paper but we could not quite understand.
Irkutsk very cold. Old town (300 years). Khabarovsk only 100, T. said.
Tiny girl, looked Oriental (she was Mongolian), met us at airport. Took the three of us to Central Hotel on Lenin Avenue. I explained about train ticket after we registered. She said to come to the Intourist office at 3 and rest until then. Now 1:30 p.m. Will see what happens.
Now 5:30 p.m. and still no word on ticket. Went down at 3, girl came and said she had wired Moscow. But no answer yet. Asked me to wait until 4. I went to dining hall and drank several cups of black coffee and ate a cake. Around 4:15 went to lobby. Girl came. Still no answer. Asked if I would like to take a walk. So I walked up Lenin Avenue to Karl Marx Street, then out to a monument on a river and back. Then down Karl Marx and then back to hotel. Many students. Several Orientals (Mongolians?). Big food shops, all busy. The sound of walking feet in light snow. Few cars. Few trolleys or buses. Saw woman’s slip for 16 rubles in a shop window.
Went down to lobby. Met two Japanese. One en route to Canterbury went to Culture Park. I asked to go with [the other named] Harada on walk. Went up to first floor dining room to eat. Service slow. English women talking loudly. Australian couple next with Turkish correspondent. About 8:15 finished. Harada and I walked about for an hour. Saw the Greek and a Negro from Paris with some Russians near a restaurant where a band was playing. I left Harada after we passed the French woman on the street.
So tired I went straight to bed. About 11:30 Intourist girl called to say Moscow had answered and I should have a ticket. But I must pay again because I don’t have it now. I was half asleep and spoke angrily. She said to be in the lobby at 7:45 a.m. next morning and hung up.
NOTES: Harada said he also arrives in Moscow on the 7th by air.
I keep wanting to speak Japanese to the Russians who speak to me.
September 4, 1965 08:22 Leave Irkutsk Rail No. 9
Saturday
Up at 6 a.m. Showered, shaved, packed bags. In lobby at 7:45. Girl came. Still no change — don’t know what to do. I thought, well, if it can be fixed in Moscow … so I paid $53 for a ticket to Moscow. Girl had taxi waiting. We rushed to the station, she bought the ticket and I boarded the train.
I was in a compartment with a family, but the conductress came and moved me to another compartment two cars down. Only occupant is a quite beautiful girl with auburn hair. No one spoke English and I seem to be the only foreigner on the train. Conductress brought tea after trying to tell me to go to the dining car. At noon, I went to the dining car — six cars up — and ate but there seemed to be some problem with the coupons. Perhaps I didn’t eat enough or something because they gave me change. (Note: Because you buy all travel services in advance from Intourist, you get coupons to exchange for meals. I was told later that the train people didn’t like Intourist coupons and really wanted cash because reimbursement was slow.)
Went back to the compartment. Auburn-haired girl wanted to undress and made me understand by taking her hands and turning my head away. She slept most of the afternoon. Once, when the conductress came in, we got out the Russian phrase book Tatyana had bought for me and they learned I was an American tourist, 29 years old, and unmarried. This caused some laughter between the two women (I think I was grateful for not understanding what they were laughing about).
I spent the afternoon reading “A Spy in Rome” by Peter Tompkins. Went to dinner and had another conversation about the coupons. Girl wanted to know if I was alone. Didn’t understand why. Read more and then went to bed.
NOTES: The country is sweeping plains, sometimes forest, sometimes great fields of grain. In hilly places there are pines. In other areas there are groves of white birches. We pass small villages, mostly of traditional Russian houses. In the bigger towns the train will stop for up to 10 minutes. You never know when the train stops or when it is ready to depart again. Passed at least one lumbering town.
September 5, 1965 En route to Moscow on No. 9
Sunday
The auburn-haired girl left the train shortly after dawn this morning. It was raining but an hour and a half later it had stopped. Train is now stopped. I got up, shaved and brushed my teeth after she left.
Conductress came in, took out the linen the girl had used and asked if I wanted a warm blanket. I agreed for it is chilly in the train now. It was warm during the night.
Read all day. Had lunch and paid with the breakfast coupon and several kopeks. Paid cash for soup and tea for supper. Restaurant car doesn’t like the coupons, I think. (See my earlier note.) They are now writing out a full bill for me.
Landscape seems unchanging. Birches, vast sweeping land, small villages. Stopped in one big industrial town around noon. Saw factories and stacks of bricks and windows and obvious building materials in rail yard as we left the town. As we were stopped later in the afternoon, noticed girls carrying out garbage in buckets from the train to an incinerator.
A beautiful sunset now as I write, about two hours from Omsk. The land is overpowering, the sky always so forbidding. The people in their heavy dark clothes seem overwhelmed by it.
Still worrying about my train ticket situation. Have little hope that Moscow will be any more reasonable than the other places. It is too complicated and as it is to their advantage not to be helpful I am almost sure I will have to pay for another ticket to Helsinki. It’s going to cut into my budget somewhat but I’ll get by. Time in New York will have to be cut to a minimum. May fly straight to Chicago and go on home. I think I will be ready. Perhaps can stay with Ruth or something there. If Mom writes me in Amsterdam, that is. I’m going to be cutting it very close with the money.
September 6, 1965 En route to Moscow on No. 9
Monday
Was awakened just at down by the washing of car windows outside. Got up, did my toilet stuff, ate cookies for breakfast. Starting to read “Making of the President 1960.” Conductress came in late in the morning to try to tell me something. Seems I’m to fill out a form about the train — how (?) etc., Learned the French woman was not on the train as Harada had said she would be. I’m the only tourist on the train. Very few tourists take the train. Managed to get to dining car for lunch and ate well. Then back to read. When train makes 10- or 15-minutes stops I get out for fresh air, as do most passengers.
We passed through the Urals (mountain region) this morning. Conductress pointed this out. A more mountainous area with great groves of white birches. Trees are turning red and yellow. Fall has set in here.
Passed a beautiful river with evidence of much logging. At one spot people rowing boats in river, one man fishing. Looked like a kind of small resort. Then out to the flatter land again. Several industrial cities and always the small, drab farm villages. Goats along the raildroad, many hay fields. Women working along the railroad.
Only 20 hours more as I write at 3:50 p.m. Moscow time. Train runs on Moscow time, not local time, so I’ve been very confused. Four hours [time zones] difference between Irkutsk and Moscow.
LATER (in Moscow): Feel asleep reading “The Making” on the bunk fully clothed. Noise woke at about 9:30 p.m. Found man and his wife entering my compartment. Went right back to sleep, then woke about 3 a.m. Put on my pajamas.
September 7, 1965 Arrive Moscow 21:20
Tuesday
Awoke at 6 a.m., lay there till 6:30 or so, then dressed, washed face. Couple still sleeping. Then at 8 o’clock stop (or 0700?) young men joined us in compartment. This stop was the last before Moscow. After awhile, man spoke to me in English. Spoke very little. Name is Valery, in an institute studying electronics, and on way to the Crimea for a holiday at the seaside. The more elderly couple joined in. All amazed I’m a tourist traveling alone. Wanted to know the cost, etc.
At about 10, the car porteress pointed out the Volga River.
Train arrived in Moscow at 11:45 (a.m.). Couple and Valery bid me goodbye. Intourist man, speaking French, met me at the station, took me to the Hotel Peking and left me. I immediately bathed, shaved and put on fresh clothes. Then to Intourist office to see about tours, tickets and above all my train ticket problem. They sent me to eat dinner and come back. Said train ticket would be settled, “don’t worry,” but I’m doubtful. Couldn’t locate Harada. He was probably mistaken about his arrival.
Then walked to Red Square. Wide boulevards. Sat in park beneath Kremlin, watching people. Then walked up to Red Square, past Lenin’s Tomb, over to St. Basil’s and past GUM’s (department store), which was closed. At five, saw changing of the guard at Lenin’s tomb. Man was repairing rubber carpeting to door of tomb and apparently visitors were not allowed.
Walked about square, watched cars, usually with military men, leave Kremlin. Then headed back to hotel.
When back, straightened out things, did some laundry and put on tie and went down at just before 9 for supper. But line is waiting, so I walked out toward square near hotel, up past Minsk Hotel and back. On way back, boy about 12 approached me in English. First asked the time, then wanted to know if I had any clothes to sell, my watch, all sorts of things, then cigarettes. I said, “You’re too young to smoke.” He said his father smoked. I told him I had only Japanese cigarettes and he left then without a thing. We were walking along the street all the time.
Got back to hotel. Still a line so strolled about 10 minutes more. Then back. A drunk was trying to get in. I finally made my tourist status known and finally got to eat my supper at about 10:30.
Band in dining room is playing American stuff. “When the Saints,” and other tunes. Young couples twisting, straight jitterbug, and I think some steps of their own creation. Enjoyed, then up to bed and to write this.
NOTES: Peasant woman peddling pickles, berries at doors of train cars at dawn or 6 a.m. stop this morning.
Couple on train asking whether I am married.
People in the parks. The restaurants are crowded and (?) at 9 p.m. And not cheap restaurants either.
The quiet gaiety in the streets. And the drunks and the seeming arguments.
Many young couples arm in arm.
The Russian language sounds as if everyone is arguing when they speak. My ear finds it strange.
Tomorrow I tour the Kremlin and attend a puppet theater.
Wrote letter home.
September 8, 1965 In Moscow
Wednesday
Left call for 8 a.m. but woke at 7. Got to Service Bureau at 9 but had to wait for car. Picked up my guide at the Nationale Hotel (after driver made a mistake and took me directly to Red Square). A young man named Slava. Then with Slava back to Red Square to tour the Kremlin Museum of Treasures and two of the cathedrals (inside the Kremlin walls) — Ivan the Terrible’s and the Archangel where the czars are entombed. Saw the tree the first Soviet cosmonaut planted after landing back on Earth. Then went through the Lenin Mausoleum. The queue must have been a mile or more long. We got in ahead; part of the tourist treatment. Slava next took me through the subway and we rode for a couple of stops; 5 kopeks for anywhere in the city. You put money in the slot, electric eye lets you through. Trains run every 90 seconds. Slava left after we made arrangements for tomorrow.
Back at the hotel, just as I unlocked the door, the phone was ringing: Go to the Service Bureau. There I was told to go to Central Intourist about my ticket problem. Ate dinner (lunch) first, then took taxi there. Taxi driver was very kind. Stopped at the Nationale first but to check, got out and went in office. Then drove me 50 yards to right building. At the Intourist office had to wait for the person handling my problem. As it turned out, I will get my money back — in New York — and a ticket to Helsinki. Very pleasant woman taking care of it.
Then walked back to the Hotel Peking much relieved and picked up my tickets to the puppet theater and bathed and rested until time to leave. Got back at 5 p.m. and show began at 7:30. Puppet play was on a contemporary theme, much to do about sex, and I’m not sure what the attitude was. Generally humorous. Quite interesting.
Back at the hotel about 9:45 p.m. for a light supper. Two Japanese businessmen, a Filipino and a Russian were having a party near my table. Singing, carrying on. Some Russian students joined in. Quite a gay, noisy party. Sang “Auld Ange Syne,” the “Battle Hymn of the Republic.” To hear two Japanese, a Filipino and three Russian students sing “Mine eyes have seen the glory” (each in their own languages except the Filipino sang in English) is something. One waiter finally, after they had downed a bottle of champagne, calmed them down. Band was also playing some lively tunes and to one Russian-style bit two women from the table next to me really let loose with a kind of ballroom version of the Cossack dance — Russian flamenco, if you will. A Russian gentleman sat down at my table, ignoring the sign saying it is for a tourist (me). He spoke derisively of the Japanese table, asked me the time. Quite distinguished-looking, but harried, seemed to take it all with amused disgust. He left. Then the Japanese bunch broke up and I left. As I was walking out of the dining room, heard one of the Russians trying to end the night with the Japanese: “You rest and tomorrow we will see the machines.” Up to bed.
NOTES: After leaving Lenin’s Tomb, you walk by the Kremlin wall where revolutionary heroes are buried; several nationalities including U.S. The most famous and the last of these is Stalin. All have busts as markers except for Stalin. I asked my guide if Stalin’s grave will get a marker soon. He said yes.
Guide had never seen Sergei Eisenstein’s film, “Ivan the Terrible.” He did not think it was made in Russia (it was). Claimed to know nothing about it. And wasn’t anxious for me to talk about it for some reason.
Elizabeth’s gift to the princess: Solid silver dining set of more than 3,000 pieces using two tons of silver.
September 9, 1965 In Moscow
Thursday
Was to meet Slava at the Nationale Hotel about 10:15 a.m. The Service Bureau was confused about my coupons, so I was late and he didn’t show up. I asked at the Nationale and about 10:30 a girl appeared. We then drove about the city — Lenin Hills, through old part of city, Moscow University, and toured Tolstoy’s home. She got out at Karl Marx Square and car took me to the hotel.
Was seated for dinner with a Swedish ballerina, born in Iceland. We had a pleasant chat about Helsinki and Stockholm. She said the Swedes are very shy and asked my opinion of Russian women. A Russian friend and a French businessman came. She was waiting for the Russian. We talked with the Frenchman who had been in the United States. He passed around Pall Mall (cigarettes). They left after a short hassle with the bill. I then went by subway to GUM’s. Prices so high. Spent an hour walking through it. Looked in the photo department for film but couldn’t find any. Then happened in next door to a record shop but couldn’t understand what was going on. Back to hotel.
Service Bureau called me to say I must get my ballet tickets. Went up, and while I was there Mrs. Czakova telephoned about train ticket refund. Go to Central Intourist again tomorrow.
Ballet began at 6:30 and it was after 5 so I rushed to bathe and get to the theater. Asked directions — they had written name of theater on the ticket — to the Stanislavski. Got there as bell was ringing. Back to hotel at 10 and ate dinner at table with German or Scandinavian couple. We didn’t talk. The glum waiter served us. Said no coffee but other people were getting coffee. Trying experience with this guy. Then to bed early, reading “Making.”
NOTE: I made no comment in my diary about the ballet for some reason and I now have no recollection of it. However, a Google search suggests it probably was the famous Stanislavski Ballet and Moscow Art Theatre.
September 10, 1965 In Moscow
Friday
Up late. To the buffet for a cup of coffee at 9:15. Then repacked bags and caught up on diary and wrote postcards until noon.
Also have a cold.
At noon went to the Service Bureau to get directions to Tretyakov Gallery (directions I later found wrong). Then ate lunch (dinner) and was joined by two Japanese businessmen. Talked about Moscow and Japan in Japanese. One, the younger, had been here several months for an industry exhibition and spoke Russian. The elder was here for the first time.
Took a taxi to the gallery, wandered about there for two hours. (Note: Drawing of Hitler, stooped over, head on chair and hat on his butt which other officer salutes.) Post-revolutionary art — the “hail forward look.”
Then walked across Moscow River, through Red Square to Central Intourist where, after a struggle, Mrs. Czakova brought me a letter to American Express (for a refund which I later got in New York), but said I must go to the Central Travel office at the Metropole Hotel to get my train ticket.
While waiting for her, got in a conversation with a Japanese named Sekioka, a Nihon University graduate and engineer with Nippon Television in Tokyo, who has spent three and a half months traveling through Europe; he gave me tips on hotels in Helsinki and Stockholm and Oslo.
After standing in line at Central Travel for my train tickets, finally got them — hooray!
Took subway back to hotel. Went to Service Bureau to check on leaving hotel. They booked a car to take me to the station, but knew nothing about anything. I am to show up at hotel administration at 10:30 (p.m.) or so to check out, have porter get bag. Will go early.
Then ate supper — one and a half hours — saw the German/Scandinavian couple come in again with Russians.
Two ladies came in very affectionately, later joined by man and wife, effusive greetings. All speak in Russian, but lady with thick glasses a tourist.
Writing this before going down to check out.
Checked out at 10 p.m. and took car to Leningrad Station. Young man met me there — meets everyone apparently, and the porter put my bags and me on the train.
Found compartment was full — me, interpreter in French for Intourist who was returning to Leningrad, another man who spoke English, and a man who did not speak at all.
Brief conversation and smoking as train left Moscow, then all went to bed.
Man who spoke English pointed out the TV tower to me as we left the city. Said autumn not a good time in Leningrad.
September 11, 1965 Arrive Leningrad 07:30
Saturday
Woke at 6:30, dressed, stood in line to use the toilet. Train arrived in Leningrad at 7:25 a.m., on time. But no one from Intourist met the train. Walked to main entrance and waited 30 minutes, then back to platform. Finally asked a policemen for Intourist and he took me to a big waiting room in the central hall. Found a UAR couple, embassy people, also waiting. Said they have been there since 6:30 a.m.
Finally, at 8:30, a man showed up, asked for me, then disappeared, then came back and put me on a bus. “Don’t forget me,” the Egyptian said.
On bus alone to the Astoria Hotel. But at hotel many tourists crowded around the Service Bureau. Woman had no record of me. Waited until 10, and she finally got me to a room, a garret-like room looking out over the dome of St. Issak’s Church.
Very bad cold. Getting worse.
Went down again to check train ticket. Again no record of me. Come in the afternoon, they said. Booked a guide.
Met a Japanese fellow, Takano, who was on the plane with me to Irkutsk.
I rested and then went to lunch. Takano joined me. English group is at the next table. Everyone is complaining of travel problems with Intourist.
Had ordered a tour for 2 p.m. Ate at 1 and barely made it.
Tour was a general one of the city, which is beautiful. Guide is an English teacher at some institute. Very pleasant woman. Kept referring to “the Great October socialist revolution.” Places in the guidebook.
We stopped at a pharmacy and the guide got me aspirin and an inhaler for the cold and then we went to a record shop where I bought records of folk songs and the Red Army Chorus. Then wound up the tour and back to the hotel.
Finally got my train ticket after a 30-minute wait.
No guide for tomorrow, which is Sunday, so will probably go to the Hermitage alone. Service Bureau mentioned a group tour there at 10 a.m.
Going down to dinner, then do some laundry and go to bed with aspirin. Hope it works.
Wrote letter home.
(Later — did just this.)
September 12, 1965 In Leningrad
Sunday
In bed until 12 noon. Up, shaved, ate lunch, inquired about leaving, retrieved passport and then went to the Hermitage.
Cold is awful. Aspirin did little good. Moving to chest.
On way to the Hermitage, stopped at St. Issak’s.
Got to the Hermitage (as the czar’s Winter Place is now called) at 2 p.m. Saw the Winter Palace museum, all the Matisse and the other French impressionists, the Japan and China rooms, and the Rubens and Rembrandts. Also Joshua Reynolds, Picasso.
While I was in the men’s room smoking, it began to rain. Clouds had been fierce-looking all day.
Men’s toilets are strange. Foot rests and big hole with chest-high compartment.
Man with a son bummed cigarette in washroom and two young boys then bummed cigarettes as I left the building. They were looking for things to buy and offered Russian icon in return. Wouldn’t answer my questions, though.
Got back to the hotel at 4:30 and just sat. Read the London Daily Worker. Finally went up to the room and rested until almost 7.
Then to supper. Joined Takano, who is still here, and it turns out we both go together on the train to Helsinki tomorrow morning.
Takano left and later brought 100-yen Olympic coin that I was to give to our waiter. His brother was a middleweight wrestler in the Tokyo Olympics; the brother won no medals but collects these coins.
Was then joined by young German Swiss couple that was driving in Russia, to Moscow and back. Very shy. Man works in Helsinki. We talked about traveling and Japan. Girl asked about the word “sabashi.” Heard it in an American movie. Man is studying architecture. Talked about Tange and the swimming pool (Kenzo Tange designed the pool for the 1964 Olympics). Cold got the better of me and I had to leave.
Back at the room, washed handkerchiefs and packed bag. Wrote this, my last night in Russia.
Russian toilet paper is like pale pink (rose) crepe paper.
NOTE: I didn't write about it in the diary, but I remember standing in one of the great rooms of the Winter Palace museum, on the second floor of the Hermitage, looking out over the square where the crowds gathered in 1917 and wondering if I was standing in the same room in which the czar and his family had come to watch what was happening outside. The Hermitage also had a room devoted to identified fake Rembrandts, all separate from the authentic Rembrandts.
September 13 Leave Leningrad 07:55 No. 32 Arrive Helsinki 12:15
Monday
(Hotel info — in station “Student Home”) I have no recollection of what this means.
Up at 6. Floor maid rang me. As I was dressing, porter came for bags. Down at 6:45. Man who met Arabs and me at the station Saturday morning was there. Takano, a Japanese from Paris, two Frenchmen and a Swiss who had no ticket were waiting. Two Frenchmen and I shared car to the station. Was there plenty early and we stood about for a bit. Learned the Swiss had been in Japan a year studying acupuncture. Train from Moscow arrived and then we boarded. Swiss got fixed up with a ticket or something, I don’t know. Also on the train were a Finnish basketball team and four or five Tokyo University students and two Japanese girls going to Helsinki.
In my compartment was an elderly lady. I noticed she was giving kisses and fond goodbyes. We talked much during the train ride. She is 73. Left Russia when she was 19 and hadn’t been there for 35 years. She now lives in Amsterdam and is a Dutch national. She had married a Dutchman and is long widowed.
She was born in Leningrad and had gone there to get reacquainted with her family. She spent two and a half months in Russia, and apparently had enough of it. She, too, spoke of the grim life, the “proletariat life,” and the concern for material things. Relatives were of a different mentality, she said, explaining how proud Dutch men were and wouldn’t have their wives working, how expensive things were compared to Holland.
Much time on train was taken with border formalities and long stops were made twice. Our passports were inspected by Russians twice, visa removed. No luggage inspection, however, by either Russians or the Finns. Train searched by Russian soldiers. Border area on Russian side all military. See only troops working.
At border itself, train stopped. Finnish soldier made a cursory inspection. We moved on. As we did so the Finnish basketball team, many of them hanging out their car windows, broke out into song, their national anthem, I think. Finnish border office took our passports at the next stop, stamped them and returned them. That was all.
Arrived in Helsinki at 3:50 p.m. Bought a Paris Herald-Tribune and a book first thing. Then to hotel central to find a room. Put in Lahetup Hospiz, 1 Annegaten, very clean, no bath, 12 marks (320 to a dollar). Inquired about boat to Stockholm, learned none on Wednesdays, leaves 2 p.m. So decided to take it tomorrow. Not that much to do in Helsinki.
Went to hospiz, washed, rested a bit, then went out. Downtown area is small and so modern and so clean. Had coffee and pastry in a cafe, went to station first and bought Time. Looked for a restaurant after coffee but the restaurants seemed big and expensive-looking. So found another café with food and ate two big hamburger-like sandwiches with fried egg in a bun. Sandwich with coffee more than a dollar ($1.25). Then walked some more and back to hotel at about 8:30 p.m.
NOTES: Lady on the train refused to let me take her picture. Seemed most embarrassed, so I dropped it.
Helped Japanese girls get grapes washed and order tea in small box in next car on train.
Todai (Tokyo University) boys went to hostel. Takano was met at station and disappeared. So did the Swiss.
Lady bid me a nice goodbye. She had remarked, “I will never see you again and you me.” This was earlier during on conversation about life in Russia, her life learning two languages and staying young by keeping busy. Remarkable woman.
This ends the journal.
